But if you rewind the clock to , only about 12 percent of Chevelles came with factory air conditioning. Even though the early Chevelles do have some quirks, we were pleased to see that Vintage Air made a SureFit kit for our application. The Gen IV SureFit kit for our Chevelle uses the original sliding heater controls and completely replaces the original heater box assembly for a clean, fresh install. The kit comes with a compressor, the appropriate mounting brackets for our small-block Chevy engine, a condenser, and pre-bent hard lines. Wally Smith was in charge of the installation, but this is a job that most gearheads can tackle with some help from a buddy over the course of a weekend. In addition to the Vintage Air system, we upgraded our cooling system with a larger radiator from U. Radiator and a clutch fan from Vintage Air to replace the original fixed-blade fan. It was also suggested that we upgrade to a more powerful alternator, so we opted for a stock-look 12si-style alternator from Powermaster. After a couple days of work in the garage, Wally had the system installed and ready to run. After it was all buttoned up, we checked for leaks in the cooling system and made sure our wiring connections were correct.
Five Signs That Your Car Has a Bad Heater Core
View Photo Gallery The looped hose means a bad heater core. The heater core in this GT provided 14 years of good service–until the other day. Evidence of the leak is visible in the area behind the air conditioner arrow.
Upgrading A C3 Corvette Cooling System – Cool It To Use It or even turning on the heater in a desperate bid to shed additional BTUs with the meager capacity of the heater core. Take the.
Date ad first posted: She sails well in every condition Ive had her in, including confidence-inspiring heavy weather sailing. Ravat is a rare configuration in that she has a factory Edson wheel option and a shoal draft. Electrical refit highlights include extensive electrical system upgrades with Blue Seas components, three batteries, Fusion marine stereo, Raymarine ST60 instruments, and chart plotter mounted on a custom angled pedestal guard.
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Where are the heater core hook ups
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Chevelle Interior Parts And Trim, Chevelle Dash And Chevelle Heater And A/c Controls And Cables.
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Keeping a Classic Chevy Cool with a Vintage Air SureFit System
When placing multiple heaters on a circuit do not exceed the wattage listed for the corresponding wire and circuit breaker size. If more heaters are needed either run a new circuit or increase the wire and breaker size to accommodate the load. A Watt heater will cost the same to run whether it is or Volt. A Volt heater run at Volt will be destroyed and poses a severe fire hazard.
A water heater, on the other hand, doesn’t care about flow rates. It’s perfectly happy with a low flow, and is designed to handle incoming water temperatures of 55°F.
If by any chance there is a flow restrictor in your new core never see one with it, but anything is possible , the pipe it is in should be clearly marked as “inlet” and the restrictor itself should be visible. Again, never seen such a thing right out the box. In that sense it is not the “static” coolant system pressure 16lbs for gassers usually, 13lbs or less for IDIs that causes it, it’s the “dynamic” pressure from the heater core dead-heading the incoming coolant flow.
I have personally done this with a bull-nose Chevy truck, as a result of a heavy-duty pump and my practice of shifting at rpms – it killed the an aftermarket heater core first, and then a dealership-bought one. I know of several Fox-body owners who had the same experience, only it didn’t take them 22 minutes from start to finish to replace their cores like I did. Ford actually recognized this as a problem at some point, and certain vehicles in the late-’80s and early-’90s did get a flow restrictor from the factory – I don’t recall which models exactly those were heavy CRS condition going on here , but I do remember the restrictor is a sort of a bushing that slides in the “inlet” heater hose right before said hose slips onto the heater core pipe.
Ford F150 Forum
Anyone who has clocked any serious seat time in one of these machines has inevitably experienced the anxiety of steadily climbing temperatures, and the worry and grief that goes along with it. Nothing ruins a summer outing like a vehicle that simply won’t keep its cool. Add a modified engine, lower gears, or even normal stock equipment like air conditioning, and the potential for heating problems is only exasperated.
The aluminum radiator is the same size as the original and is a bolt-in direct-fit, but the cooling capacity is stellar. The dual-fan kit is the icing on the cake, moving a massive amount of air, but only when needed.
Restore your car with this new Chevelle Heater Control Assembly, Engineered just like the original factory unit. Precise reproduction includes everything!. Manage your car’s climate with this complete heater control assembly from OPGI. The assembly includes the lens with the original style white lettering, chr.
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heater core hook-up
The internal combustion engine in most cars and trucks is cooled by a water and antifreeze mixture that is circulated through the engine and radiator by a water pump to enable the radiator to give off engine heat to the atmosphere. Some of that water can be diverted through the heater core to give some engine heat to the cabin, or adjust the temperature of the conditioned air. A heater core is a small radiator located under the dashboard of the vehicle, and it consists of conductive aluminium or brass tubing with cooling fins to increase surface area.
Great heater for my Polaris RZR I ended up making 2 flat bar brackets and hung it from the dash using the exsisting hole they hold the core to the plastic.
It’s a choice little car to turn into a hot rod, but he had to fix a few things first. If the windows in your Chevy are steaming up and you’re not in the backseat, you just may have a problem. Or if you notice coolant dripping from under the glovebox on the passenger’s toe board, no doubt about it, you are rotten to the core. When a heater core goes bad there are two temporary solutions to remedy the problem.
One is to pour some AlumAseal into the radiator and hope it circulates throughout the system and plugs the leak. We only recommend doing that if you’re on a road trip and don’t have access to a garage. The other option is to remove the heater hoses altogether and plug the holes in the manifold and water pump. This is a more permanent fix, but what about when it gets cold and you want to warm up the inside of the vehicle a bit?
Or what if you need to defrost the windshield? Worse yet, what if you are have overheating issues and need to turn on the heater to dissipate some of the engine heat?